|
L
Largo start
A climb or bouldering problem where the first
move starts with a jump for high holds. Named after John Long
(or 'Largo').
Layback/Lieback
Somewhat clumsy looking climbing technique where
hands and feet work in opposition.
Leader
Person who leads a climb.
Lead, to
To ascend a climb from the bottom up, placing
protection (or clipping protection) as you go.
Ledge
Flat bit on a rock (can be miniature or gigantic).
Limestone
Type of rock found in abundance in southern France
(usually white and full of pockets and holds).
Locking biner
Karabiner that can be locked (in the UK, a screwgate or twistlock).
Lock-off
To hold on to the rock with one bent arm while
using the other arm to reach up for the next hold or to place
or clip protection. Lockoffs on small holds will get you pumped
in a hurry.
Lowering
To descend something or somebody.
M
Manky
Term used to describe a fixed bolt that looks
like it was placed before the last ice age. Use these bolts at
your own discretion
Mantle
Difficult balancing move useful to get up on
ledges.
Mixed climbing
Climbing with a combination of different methods
of ascent. e.g mixed free and aid climbing, mixed rock and ice
climbing, etc.
Moat
The gap between snow and ice on a rock wall.
Has posed problems ever since the middle ages.
Mountain rescue
The people who put their life on the line when
you screw up badly.
Munge
The dirt and vegetation that can sometimes be
found in cracks. In the UK: Choss.
Multi pitch climb
Climb that consists of more than a single pitch.
Munter hitch
Knot used for belaying (Aka italian hitch or
friction hitch). The Germans love this knot (see HMS).
N
Nailing
An ancient term used to describe direct-aid climbing
with pitons.
Needle
Rock with a characteristic pointed shape. Also
known as pinnacle, aiguille, gendarme, etc.
Nv
Consolidated granular snow formed by repeated
freeze-and-thaw cycles. Also used to indicate permanent snowfields.
Notch
A small col.
Nut
Metal wedge used for protection in cracks.
Nut key
The piece of metal that Americans call a nut tool.
Nut tool
Piece of metal that can be used to remove stuck
nuts or cams. In the UK: nut key.
O
"Off Belay"
Yelled when the climber no longer requires a
belay (e.g. because she/he has reached a stance). Once the belayer
hears "off belay", he/she removes the rope from the belay device
and yells "belay off". In UK, Australia and New Zealand: "Safe".
Off width
A climb too wide to jam, too small to chimney.
And then I've heard of people who actually like this kind of climbing.
"On Belay ???"
Query to verify if the belayer is ready to secure
the climber (US only).
On-sight flash
Leading a climb with no falls and no dogging
and without any prior attempts, watching someone do it or beta
on how to do the moves.
Open book
Same as a dihedral or inside corner. Two panes
of rock join in an acute or obtuse corner that faces left or right.
Outside corner
Also known as pillar or arete.
Over-cam, to
Compressing a cam to its absolute minimum size
during placement, effectively eliminating the possibility of extraction.
Overhand knot
A simple (but solid) knot in a double rope.
Overhand loop
The simplest type of knot possible.
Overhang
Rock (or ice) that is "more than vertical".
Over-kilned
A boiler plate or flaky rock
P
Pass
The lowest passage between two mountains. The
french - but not just the french - know this as a col. The mathematicians
would call this the saddle point.
Party ledge
A somewhat larger ledge used to rest (and party
!) during a particularly hard or long climb. Sometimes used to
refer to the belay station on a multipitch climb.
pendulum
A swing on the rope, either intentional to gain
a distant anchor on big wall climbs or unintentional when falling
during a traverse with not enough pro in place.
Pig
The haul bag using for big wall climbing.
Pillar
Outside corner
Pimp, to
To do a short semi-dynamic stab. It's not quite
a dynamic move, but it's also not quite static. It's the happy
median.
Pink point
To red-point a climb where the pro and runners
have been pre-placed.
Pitch
A section of climb between two belays and no
longer than the length of one rope (this used to mean 45m, nowadays
pitches can also be 50 or even 60m long -- check your topo).
Piton
Metal spike hammered into a crack (has come in
disuse for all but some special applications) (Aka "peg" in the
UK).
Pocket
A hold formed by a (small) depression in the
rock.
Portaledge
A hanging tent with built in bed used on big
walls (and big trees).
Pro, Protection
Anchors placed during the climb to protect the
leader. Beware: even properly placed pro does not prevent pregnancy
or the transmission of STDs.
Prusik
The sliding knot or the method to ascend a rope
(named after its inventer Dr. Karl Prusik).
Pumped
The feeling of overworked muscles. Most climbers
are familiar with the forearm pump: too much finger work causes
the forearms to swell and the strength to disappear. With a serious
forearm pump, even holding a glass of beer can become a serious
challenge.
Pumpy
Describes a climb that will leave you pumped.
Q
Quickdraw, quick
Short sling with karabiners on either side.
R
Rack
The climbing gear carried during an ascent.
Rack, to
To sort the rack before engaging on the next
climb or pitch.
Rad
Not trad. Slang for sport climbing.
Rally, to
To climb exceptionally well, especially on normally
difficult climbs.
Ramp
An ascending ledge
Rappel, to
Also: to rap. Descending by sliding down a rope.
Known in Britain (and Germany) as abseiling.
Rappeler
Individual who enjoys sliding down ropes instead
of climbing up rocks. The second-lowest form of life on earth
(second only to the touron)
Rating
A number denoting the technical difficulty of
the climb.
R.D.S.
Rapid Deceleration Syndrome. Military term for the very sudden
illness that happens at the end of a long fall.
Redpoint
To lead a climb without falling or dogging after
a number of attempts. This is different from onsight, where the
climb is lead without falling or dogging on its first attempt.
Resin
An alternative to chalk. Resin (or "pine tree
resin" to use its full name) is made from the yucky stuff that
sticks to your hands when you touch a pine tree. Because resin
is mostly colorless, it is preferred to chalk in some areas. But
caution: Don't let the color fool you. Resin can do permanent
damage to the rock and in fact is not allowed anywhere in the
US for that reason.
Resident protection
Fixed pro.
Rib
A slender buttress. Something between a buttress
and an outside corner.
Ridge
The high divide extending out from a peak.
Ring
A large (2 inch diameter) ring that is cemented
in the rock as a bolt. Rings are very common in Germany and France
and are excellent for rappelling and hanging belays.
"Rock"
Scream let out to warn people down below that
a piece of rock has been overcome by gravity. The loudness, number
of repetitions, and/or panic in voice with which this word is
uttered is often an indication of the seriousness of the rock.
In the UK, you're more likely to hear "Below", beware!
Roof
Seriously overhanging part in a climb (more or
less horizontal).
Rope
Long and round nylon fabrication. Climbing ropes
are generally between 10 and 11 mm in diameter (with the exception
of "half ropes" which are between 8.5 and 9mm in diameter).
"Rope"
Should be yelled when a rope is about to be thrown
to the base of the crag (though most of the time it seems like
"rope" is shouted about 1-2 seconds after the rope is
thrown). In the UK, shout "Rope below".
Route
A certain path up a rock or mountain.
Runner
A loop of tape or webbing either sewn or tied
(Aka sling, especially in the UK). In the UK, a 'runner' is a
running belay.
Runner
A runner threaded or looped around chockstones,
flakes, horns or chickenheads for protection.
Runout
Distance between two elements of pro. A route
is "runout" when the distance between those two elements of pro
becomes uncomfortably long.
S
Saddle
A high pass that looks somewhat like the horsewear.
Not quite as steep as a col.
"Safe"
The British equivalent of "Off Belay".
Schwag
Terrible rock conditions.
Scrambling
Easy climbing, usually unroped.
Screamer
A very, very long fall.
Screamer
Special piece of equipment meant to reduce the
impact of a screamer (the fall) on the belay system.
Scree
Loose rocks and stones that cover the slope below
a cliff. With every step, scree slides under your feet.
Screwgate
The type of karabiner that can be locked with
a screw. See also twistlock. In the US this is usually called
a 'locking biner'.
Scrube
A hammer-in, screw-out type of ice screw.
Second
The climber who follows the leader. See also
following.
Send, to
To climb a route with ease. "I'm gonna send this
route, dude!"
Serac
A block or tower of ice on a steep glacier or
in an ice fall. Since seracs are created by the force of gravity
working on the glacier or ice fall, they can come down at any
moment.
V
Verglas
Thin water ice on rock.
Vigen
Great, super. "Everything's vigen."
W
Warthog
A roughened spike hammered into certain kinds
of ice or frozen turf for protection. Very popular on mixed climbs in the UK
"Watch me"
Call to indicate the climber is about to do something
stupid -- like fall.
Water ice
Ice formed directly from frozen water. Water
ice is clear and brittle and contains few air bubbles. Sometimes
water is even flowing around the ice. Can be found in the couloirs
of the High Sierra in autumn (and in many other places).
Water knot
See tape knot.
Way
Extremely. “I was way scared on that run-out”.
Webbing (tubular)
Flat and strong strip of nylon, that is hollow
in the inside.
Webbing (loop of)
A runner made of webbing.
Weighting
The delicate test of placing weight on a piece
of pro after placing it. Usually with aid climbing.
Whipper
A very long fall.
White ice
Ice with lots of air bubbles that forms from
melted-and-frozen snow. Good climbing stuff.
Wombing
Doing a no-hands-rest.
Woodie
A homemade climbing wall.
X
Y
Yabo
As in 'yabo start'. A 'sit start'. Named after John Yablonski a stud
southern California climber, who was nicknamed Yabo.
Yard, to
To pull on a piece of protection. Strictly speaking
aid climbing.
YDS
Yosemite Decimal System. The North-American rating
system.
Z
Zawn
A deep and narrow fold or inlet in a sea cliff.
British.
Zipper
A fall where the protection pulls out one after
the other as the leader succumbs to gravity. Often ends with a
grounder (or a cardiac arrest).
Z-Pulley System
Complicated rope setup that allows you to hoist
heavy weights with relatively little force. Excellent for rescuing
or hauling bags.
|